Kathmandu
Every trip to Nepal begins in the capital of Kathmandu. The Kathmandu
Valley is in actuality comprised of three distinct cities—Kathmandu,
Lalitpur (Patan), and Bhaktapur—all of which boast rich histories
and artistic achievements, many marked by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites.
Urban Kathmandu now encompasses Kathmandu and Lalitpur to create a worldly,
cosmopolitan environment, while Bhaktapur retains the feeling of a medieval
walled city, and small villages all along the Valley rim still practice
their traditional ways of life. In one day, you can experience many
layers of history, yet a full week is still not enough to fully appreciate
the diverse heritage of this fertile Valley.
The heart of Kathmandu proper still beats in Durbar Square (Palace
Square). Although it opens on to New Road, the center of Kathmandu’s
electronics and luxury goods import business, Durbar Square itself still
conjures up images of the divine royalty who once ruled the city. Merchants
of all shapes and sizes throng below its grand monuments, and one can
imagine a king emerging briefly to greet his subjects. Hanuman Dhoka
stands guard at the far end of the Square—the ancient seat of
Nepalese kings, it is a complex of temples and monuments guarded by
the veritable monkey god, Hanuman. It is still used for government purposes
today. The temple of Kasthamandap, from which the city takes its name,
is a large pavilion with a multi-leveled-pagoda roof located nearby.
In addition to many other remarkable temples, the Square now houses
the National Museum, which provides a rich introduction to the country’s
history. Nearby, you can visit the bustling market areas of Asan Tol
and Indra Chowk, where nearly everything imaginable is available, from
shiny glass beads and bangles to delicious curry spices to imported
jeans and shoes.
Heading south across the Bagmati river, one reaches Patan, or Lalitpur,
which literally means the “city of arts”. Maintaining an
exquisite array of temples and palaces, it is also home to many contemporary
Newar artisans who have followed in their ancestors’ footsteps,
continuing to make the gods come to life in the mediums of stone, metal,
and wood in which they work. The city’s Newars practice a fascinating
mix of Buddhism and Hinduism, which is reflected in their unique artistic
style. In the Buddhist bahals of Kwa Bahal and Mahabouddha, thousands
of intricately carved tiny buddhas bring blessings to the city, while
its inhabitants visit these temples to spin prayer wheels and make donations
to monks. Nearby in Patan’s own Durbar Square, the elaborate Indian-style
Krishna Mandir carved of stone pays homage to one of Hinduism’s
most important deities. In front of the palace—a beautiful old
structure of wood and brick which has been recently renovated and now
houses the Patan Museum—devotees of both faiths stroll across
the promenade bringing offerings to their deities of choice. Small stone
temples abound throughout the back alleys of the city, dotted between
artisan’s workshops where you can purchase silver jewelery or
stone statues. Just out of the city center in Jawalakhel, Tibetan refugees
produce their famous richly woven carpets. An afternoon spent wandering
through this intriguing labyrinth of spiritual faith and artistic expertise
can be extremely rewarding.
About fifteen kilometers or a half hour’s ride away from Kathmandu
lies Bhaktapur, the “city of devotees”. With no cars inside
the city’s gates, a walk through its brick-paved alleyways and
broad squares transports you to another century. Impeccably restored
by a German-Nepali project, the temples of Durbar and Dattatreya Squares,
as well as Taumadhi Tole, are magnificent. Traditionally a center for
fine woodwork and pottery, the Potters’ Square is still in full
operation today, displaying fresh terracotta works every day. The finely
carved windows found all over the city, are exemplified by the famous
Peacock Window, and are a real pleasure to the eye.
Boudhanath and Swayambhunath are important Buddhist monuments on the
outskirts of Kathmandu. To the northeast of the city center, Boudhanath
is one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world. Its painted Buddha
eyes are striking, as is the sound of bells and monks chanting as devotees
circle the monument spinning its hundreds of prayer wheels. The center
of the Tibetan community in the city, you can meet monks and pilgrims,
nuns and lamas from the farthest corners of the Tibetan cultural world,
many dressed in traditional attire. You can also visit grand monasteries
filled with golden Buddha statues, and observe the monks during their
daily prayer practices. Located at the northwest corner of the city,
Swayambhunath is smaller, yet similar in appearance to Boudhanath. However,
it has the distinction of being the oldest stupa in the area—the
story goes that the Bodhisattva Manjushri arose on a lotus on top of
Swayambhu hill and threw his thunderbolt to create Chobhar Gorge (to
the south of the city) and drain the ancient lake which once covered
the entire Kathmandu Valley. Perched atop a steep hill, Swayambhunath
is surrounded by trees and greenery and makes a perfect retreat from
the busy city. One gains religious merit by climbing the three hundred
odd steps to reach the temple, and the views from the top are a rich
worldly reward.
For Hindus, Pashupatinath is one of the most important pilgrimage
sites in the world. Located just south of Boudhanath, it is the largest
Hindu temple complex in Nepal. You can wander through the surrounding
forests and come upon temple after stone-carved temple, many occupied
by Hindu ascetics known as sadhus, and others occupied only by monkeys!
This is also the site where Kathmandu’s Hindus cremate their dead
on the banks of the sacred Bagmati river which flows into the Ganges,
and cremation processions are a frequent site here.
These are just a few of the landmark monuments that make Kathmandu
a treat for the mind and soul, not to mention the hikes up hills like
Swayambhu to challenge the body! There are many, many more fascinating
sites to visit. A few days or a week spent in Kathmandu is a fascinating
journey through history, and a perfect way to begin or end your travels
in other parts of Nepal.
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